Hugh Leonard, Sunday Independent ©

Well, now there is an Indian restaurant - Jaipur - newly opened in Dalkey's main street, and it is only terrific.

It is not a habit of mine to hail strangers across a crowded room - or, for that matter, an uncrowded - room. However, this evening I noticed that a young man was eating the same starter as I. It was the achari tikka : a chicken dish which - pardon the cliché, but it is no less than the truth - melted in the mouth. I exclaimed, "So what about this?" to which the young man replied with an eloquence which Shakespeare would not have disdained to employ: "Wow."

I have little hope of getting a table at Jaipur in the near future. The cooking is so subtle - even as regards the wonderful naan bread, flavoured with garlic and coriander - that even on this Tuesday the world is beginning to beat a path to its door. As the young man said, and I cannot improve on his praise: Wow.