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The Phantom’s Restaurant of the fortnight….

Although a regular at their South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2 HQ, this was the first time The Phantom had ventured north to Jaipur’s Malahide branch, which is just a ten-minute stroll from the castle where the Arctic Monkeys, Al Green, Joe Cocker, Pink, Groove Armada et al will be entertaining us this summer.

They haven’t got a Michelin star yet, but Jaipur are working on it with a menu that’s in a totally different league to the curry house norm. Not that there’s anything stuffy or pretentious about the restaurant, which is just as happy doling out the lager (€4.50) as it is the Dom Perignon (€130). The Phantom, still flush from backing the Grand National winner, had both.

The choice being just too agonising, your favourite ghostwriter and his ghoulfriend went for the Jugalbandi (€12), a mixed plate if Tandoori delights, which head chef Anubhav Sirivastava proudly brought to the table himself. Despite some fierce competition from the chicken and the lamb, it was the super succulent king prawns that got the couple’s first preference and had them ruing the comparative blandness of the Ireland’s politicians.

For mains it was the Murgh Tikka masala (€19) and the Lamb Chilli Fry (€19.50), a new addition to the Jaipur menu, which isn’t afraid to turn up the heat, and goes down a treat with Chef Sirivastava’s simple, but delicious spinach salad.

Coverting thy neighbour’s Goan Seafood curry (€21.50) may be a mortal sin, but it has to be said that the bowl of coconut-y black tiger prawns, crab craws and mussels that was brought to the adjoining table looked damn sexy. Also inspiring impure thoughts was the basket of the mixed naan and the basil & chilli sorbet that our devilish diners somehow managed to find the room afterwards.

Great food, decent price and a spot of commandment breaking… The Phantom will be back!